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Annam – One Door, Two Worlds

Annam – One Door, Two Worlds

When the French colonised Vietnam, a land they called Indochine Français, it was a meeting of two cultures for whom the table was not just a part of life – it was at the heart of life.

Throughout the colonial period, each of these great cuisines borrowed from each the other (French influence on Vietnamese cooking being particularly strong). Yet they also remained staunchly à part, east and west co-existing side by side in the big Vietnamese cities.

Now in Wellington, they have been brought together again, both under one roof.

One of the city’s culinary icons, trend-setting Chris Green, has created Annam, a restaurant which celebrates the flavours of both cuisines in an atmosphere that the well-travelled will immediately recognise as bustling, urban, contemporary Vietnam.

“It will be more Vietnam than France,” says Green. “I’ve always loved to explore, and this is part of that evolution. The Vietnamese, with their stock-based dishes and baguettes, have borrowed heavily off the French, making their cuisine unique in Asia. Annam’s French bistro corner is a nod both to the roots of that influence and to my own.

“Annam is not about fusion, it’s about two distinct, authentic approaches to food.”

Green’s former euro-styled restaurant Arbitrageur has been transformed. Designer trestle tables, distressed concrete walls, faded pastel colours, corrugated iron, a long rough-hewn bar… welcome to Wellington’s own slice of Saigon street life.

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Behind the wrought iron gates at the entrance you’ll find people surrounded by piles of fresh herbs making spring rolls beneath clusters of lanterns, while off to one side a coq au vin and a glass of Burgundy can be enjoyed underneath a chandelier. The atmosphere throughout would be best described as décontracté (relaxed).

Green is making every effort to give Wellington an authentic Vietnamese eating and drinking experience. To that end he is being assisted by Nikki Chung, whose beloved Willis Street eatery Nam has introduced many Wellingtonians to her country’s cuisine. All the favourites from Nam’s menu will be there, along with snacks such as Vietnamese-style baguettes and takeaway salads.

“In my travels, I‘ve fallen in love not just with the flavours but with the whole Vietnamese approach to food,” says Chris. “It’s simple, healthy and stunningly flavoursome.”

Says Nikki: “More Kiwis are discovering and enjoying Vietnamese cuisine. Annam is going to give more of them access to the tastes of my country, in a setting that is unique for Wellington.”

Annam is for all, and its prices reflect that: entrées range from $10-$14, mains from $18-$26.

The long bar is likely to become a gathering place for the after-work crowd. As well as serving Tiger beer and Allan Scott sauvignon blanc on tap, there’s a wine list made to match both cuisines and a sumptuous array of cocktails. These include a number of complex coffee cocktails, a Vietnamese specialty.

“I’m so excited by this,” add Chris. “I’ve been planning it for a while, and I look forward to Wellington joining me on this next stage of my journey.”

ENDS

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