Julie Webb Pullman: Viva Palestina Diary Part 1

Saturday 18 September - Luton to Paris

Twenty vehicles from Viva Palestina went to the embankment in London for a press conference and public farewell, while the three Kia Ora Gaza vehicles (all ambulances, as are most vehicles in the convoy) drove with the remainder to the Eurotunnel. All along the way, we were tooted and waved at in gestures of support. When the embankment contingent arrived, we all boarded the train, and headed underground. Emerging from the depths we had a largely uneventful drive from Calais to Paris - except for one vehicle whihc has MAJOR mechanical problems....arrived at our lodgings (a sports stadium in the Parisian suburb of Bagnolet) late that night, and ate a superb dinner of roast chicken and salads accompanied by a selection of cheeses, crusty baguettes, and fruit generously provided by our hosts, accompanied by several choices of wine for those who wanted it. Then it was time to hit the sleeping bags in anticipation of a big day tomorrow.

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Kia Ora Gaza hits Paris

Sunday 19 September – Paris

We woke to a beautiful sunny day, and breakfasted on more delicious bread, sweet and juicy white-flesh peaches, yoghurt, fruit juices, and of course coffee. Well-fuelled, we set off in convoy to tour selected areas of Paris, before our scheduled meeting with the Deputy-Mayor of Bagnolet, Laurent Jamet.

First up was the Monument of Bastille, erected on the site of the old Bastille Prison, the French Revolution’s equivalent of Cuba’s Moncada Barracks. As we passed through the streets of Paris with sirens wailing and lights flashing people hung out of windows and off balconies to salute our passing. Motorists tooted their support, while pedestrians cheered, gave the peace sign, or just waved to show their solidarity with the international humanitarian mission and the Palestinian people. The monument carries the inscription “Liberté, equalité, fraternité” or translated, Liberty, Equality, Fraternity – a fitting beginning for a mission trying to achieve the first for the Palestinian people, in the spirit of the second and third.

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Cheering from the balcony on the way to Bastille

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Bastille Monument, Paris

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Some convoy participants at the Bastille monument

Once at the monument the convoy circled it to the cheers of locals, and parked up. An hour or so passed as Parisiennes and convoy participants exchanged greetings and views, and took tetragis of pics! Even idle passers-by seemed intrigued with the arrival in their midst of scores of foreigners in ambulances emblazoned with stickers and banners. On being informed of the purpose, they were with few exceptions entirely supportive. Enormous support and gratitude was expressed, particularly by people of Middle Eastern origin. We are definitely getting the feeling that this mission is well-supported by the ordinary people of France.

Running out of time, we had to return to Bagnolet – but with the heavy Parisienne traffic many vehicles became separated from the convoy, and spent an interesting few hours practicing their appalling French on extremely tolerant locals, in a desperate attempt to return to base.

My co-driver and I considered ourselves lucky to have stuck close to the Irishman with GPS, thinking that would surely lead us ‘home’. Not so!! It could only take us to within 600 metres of the stadium’s location, and because of the one-way street system and our unfamiliarity with the area, we were still scratching our heads…finally I tried a combination of Spanish and schoolgirl French on some locals enjoying a coffee in a corner café, who gave us directions. We passed them on to the other two lost vehicles, and set off. They decided to stick with the GPS. We arrived back at the stadium within minutes – some half an hour later they arrived, still cursing the GPS! Humans, 1, GPS nil!

We arrived just in time for the reception hosted by the Deputy Mayor of Bagnolet - the Mayor was still in Beirut for the anniversary of the Shatilla-Shabra massacre. First up was the welcome from Mr Jamet, Deputy Mayor of one of the Parisienne municipalities to have a Communist party in office.

He was followed by George Galloway, founder of Viva Palestina.

Then it was more fabulous French food, and cider to die for.

A cyber-café search yielded free internet access as the owner supported our aims and refused to accept payment – yet another example of the depth of feeling and level of support in Paris. Unfortunately I had only half an hour as the women who had transported me needed to return to their own town, but it was enough time to send off half the pics and audio I had ready…

Back at the stadium, it was time to meet the local people who had so kindly provided all our food and accommodation while in Paris, to let them know who we all were, why we were there, and answer their questions. They were most impressed by the Kia Ora Gaza team’s speaker, Patrick O’Dea, practicallymobbing him with kisses and embraces and expressions of appreciation. Even the children got in on the act, several of them running up and kissing me while their mothers’ blew kisses or made other gestures of appreciation. It brought home how much this mission means to Palestinians, not only in the Palestinian territories but also in the far-flung lands so many have been forced to take refuge in.

The next day’s drive would be a big one, so it was off to bed for a 5am start.

Monday 20 September – Paris to Lyon (pics 7-9)

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Palestinian flag with French and EU flags

Travelling in convoy is a slow business, especially one this large. Just filling up with petrol can take over an hour, and getting through cities is a significant challenge. Amazingly, we did all arrive in Lyon, only about two hours late for the reception being held for us there. And what a reception – another magnificent meal! After eating, we set off in convoy for Vaulx en Velin City Hall, where a small delegation was received by the Mayor while the rest of us gathered outside and talked with locals, handed out postcards, took photos of the only Palestinian flag to be flying from a French municipal government building next to the French and European Union flags. They told us that the ‘Prefect’ demanded that the Mayor remove the Palestinian flag, to which the Mayor replied that he would remove it when Palestine is free!

Then it was off to the old city, driving through the streets with bells and whistles until we reached the main square, Place Belle Coeur, where there was a big rally with hundreds of people turning out to welcome us and send us on our way with their good wishes.

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Lyonnaise locals turn out in support

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Rally in Place del Cour

Dinner at Vaulx en Velin followed – yet another magnificent meal – this time Moroccan chicken tagine with couscous, followed by apple tart. Yum! Again, we met with the locals, whose generosity and goodwill was once again feeding and housing us – their Council’s support extended to providing the entire Viva Palestina convoy with hotel accommodation for the night – greatly appreciated after two nights on a stadium floor!!

It seems the further we go, the more support there is, not only for the people of Palestine but also for Viva Palestina and their delivery of humanitarian aid.

Tuesday 21 September – Lyon to Milan via Turin

Wow, a sleep-in! Only had to get up at 6.30am for an 8am start! Because of the delays of the previous day, we were under orders to stay in our vehicles at fuel stops, and only get out to fill up and pay, to avoid long delays caused by people wandering off for a coffee, or something to eat or whatever. We were supposed to arrive in Turin in time for a lunch being hosted by the local Palestinian support groups, and if we stuck to the plan and followed orders we would be there by 2pm. The best-made plans….we arrived at 5.30pm and were met on the outskirts and given a police escort through the city to the main square. Luckily the Italians were as good as the French at putting on a great welcome, with not only a police escort but also cheering crowds, and FOOD!!!! Proscuitto, fennel, tomatoes with fresh basil, capsicum, kebabs, Russian salad, crostoni, grapes, pears – you name it, it was there! Along with an amazing installation of Netanyahu et al, and a sizeable crowd of concerned Italians endorsing the mission and the Palestinian cause, as well as making us feel like heroes. It is very humbling, and a great responsibility, to feel the weight of concern everywhere we go, and the great expectations people have of our convoy. I only hope we can live up to them all – but I guess that depends on the Israelis – and the Egyptian government…

After eating and talking and listening our fill, we were off to Milan, and a night in a camping ground – and best of all, a free day to STOCK UP so we don’t have a repeat of yesterday’s low-blood-sugar meltdown!!!!

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Cheering crowd on a Turin street

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Following our police escort through Turin

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Installation, Turin piazza

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Netanyahu the butcher, Turin

Wednesday 22 September - Milan

Laundry, shopping and – you guessed it – no time for internet! Maybe at tonight’s truck-stop outside Bologna…..

Julie Webb-Pullman (click to view previous articles) is a New Zealand based freelance writer who has reported for Scoop since 2003. She was selected to be part of the Kiwi contingent on the Viva Palestina Convoy - a.k.a. Kia Ora Gaza. Send Feedback to julie@scoop.co.nz

ENDS

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