Feature: Tanya Carlson At Air NZ Fashion Week

Here’s a slight bias-alert; this writer loves Tanya Carlson!

After being absent from last year’s ANZFW due to copyright issues with the name Cherry Cotton Candy (the playful sidekick that is the child of Carlson design assistant Cara Cotton), Tanya told me that although the issue wasn’t quite settled, they decided to “push on through anyway” and that it was “absolutely fantastic to be back”.

Cherry Cotton Candy took to the catwalk first with their “Ice Ice Baby” show. Designer Cara Cotton admits to loving hip-hop, is addicted to sneakers and adores classic sportswear – all influences that were reflected as her pony-tailed models bounced their way down the catwalk.

Looks moved from ‘50s style cropped and swingy jackets in lolly pink, ‘60s style peacoats in everything from lurex-threaded cream wool check, to leopard print and right through to palest lilac wool. Add in the ‘70s ski vests in white with chevron stripes of purple, red and orange and the ‘80s with a silver leotard worn over striped leggings, hotpants in fabrics as diverse as purple velvet and gold spandex worn with legwarmers and you get a sense of how this collection spanned decades of iconic sportswear.

Then the lights dimmed and Meatloaf blared through the stereo, setting an entirely different tone. The first garment from Carlson’s collecion was a white lace ‘pirate’ blouse that appeared simple from the front yet was cut longer and fuller in the back teamed with skinny black satin pants, underlining the Rock Chick ethos that this designer loves to embrace.

Skinny leg, high waist tailored trousers mixed it up with more relaxed fits in shades of brown and grey. These were teamed with sheer silks – from a pink shirt left un-tucked – the Carlson girl is not at all prim- to a grey silk print over-dress.

This is a designer who is established and confident enough to go her own way; in a fashion week that has so far embraced volume Carlson’s show embraced a sleek silhouette – even the fullest item, a 40s cape style trapeze coat was teamed with the tightest knit mini.

Unexpected touches came from 1940s style cable knit sweaters that were teamed with mannish pants or maxi skirts. Carlson’s signature attention to cut was evident in her maxi dresses, where instead of hiding the wearer these skimmed the body in the most flattering of ways regardless of the fabric used – from wool to cotton to the sheerest silk.

My favourite piece (and this was really hard to choose) was the 1960s-inspired grey embroidered silk dress – cut as a simple shift from the front, this dress had bell sleeves and a draped back. Find a cocktail party, book the fake tan – it’s a dress to die for.

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