Fashion Week: Verging on Brilliance

Verge celebrated 20 years of business with a catwalk show that recognised the talent that has come through the Verge mentoring program. As ANZFW managing director Pieter Stewart explains, "Verging on Brilliance is a tribute to founders Ian Webster and Neil Brabant."

We joined the catwalk celebrations where nine designers who have previously shown under the Verge mantle – Cybèle, Federation, FireRed, Hailwood, Keucke, Lonely Hearts, Michael Patterson, and Pearl – showed us four key outfits each.

Cybèle

Hailwood

James and August

Some of the clothes were in season (in shops now), some of them were retrospective, some had already shown at fashion week this year, and some were next season’s.

James & August is one label not holding a stand-alone show during ANZFW this year. Designed by Sally Ridge, we saw a brightly coloured collection of loungewear and underwear that was youthful, flirty and fun. Half-zip hoodies, cosy sleeping tees, casual trackies, and girly undies featured.

Highlights of the show? Federation's silver bomber with a drawstring tie under the bust and thick cream ribbing at the bottom, Lonely Hearts’ graphic prints and ‘80s-inspired high-shine silver mini (their Winter '08 collection show is tomorrow), and Pearl's sheer mesh overskirts that moved beautifully with the body.

Blak Basics

Blak Basics designer Teresa Hodges secured eight high profile stockists across New Zealand within three months of starting her label and you can see why. She showed an extremely commercial collection of fashionable basics in fine cottons – from slouchy singlets and t-shirt dresses, to pussy bow sweaters and what looked to me like the perfect pair of pants. A strong collection from a first timer who has obviously stuck to what she knows she is good at.

Elusiv

With a very ‘Dunedin’ attitude to fashion, Nicola Riley’s collection for menswear label Elusiv was designed with her partner’s needs in mind. Part preppy, part après snowboarding, part casual Friday, the collection looked to be beautifully made and perhaps some of the detailing would be better seen up close. Merino knits and sturdy antique denim jeans were mixed with utilitarian vests and chunky jackets, and the show was finished off with a selection of strong, smart casual shirts, blazers and dress pants.

Euinton

The strongest of the three in the first Verge Breakthrough show, knitwear label Euinton is one to keep your eye on. From the very first, Cybèle-esque dress and the corset-inspired, architectural singlets and jumpers, to brilliantly cut cardigans in vibrant colours, the collection was strong throughout. “Stick to your knitting” is a blend of perfect basics and showpieces that prove that designer Clair Euinton really knows what works.

Thomas Valentine

You wouldn’t think that a law career was the most obvious lead in to fashion, but Sheridah Anderson learnt how to be a tailor from her mother. She adored clothing and everything associated with it, but didn’t indulge her calling until creating a capsule collection for Winter 2004, while she was still working in the legal world. Since opening her store in Ponsonby Road last year however, it has been all guns blazing. Sheridah has a real eye for fabrics, and most of the inspiration for her garments springs from discovering unique and exotic material. The sheers and light as a feather woollens we have come to see in her pieces was evident in her Winter 08 collection. Sheridah doesn’t subscribe to any particular trends, choosing to produce timeless, elegant pieces that can be worn by a wide range of ages. Next season from thomas valentine promises paisley patterns, soft brushed velvets, satin tulip skirts, cocoon-like long cardigans (that can also be worn as dresses) and ruffles. Shining out of the organza, satin, chiffon and wool blends were metallics, aquamarine and the odd tartan. Sheridah’s take on the military stylings that have been emerging for some time now was the occasional feather and piped fabric epaulettes and ‘pip’ like badges on breasts and sleeves.

1984

At only 23, Katarina Tua is one of the youngest designers to show at ANZFW. A late addition to the Verge schedule, she described her clothing as inspiring an ice-cream headache-like shock to the system. I would describe them as a mixture of the masculine tailoring of after-five dressing and the fine folds of origami. Satin trimmed dinner jackets, roomy dress pants and a ruffle-tailed top paid homage to the tuxedo, while juxtaposed pleats folded themselves across shoulders, into a divine midnight blue bolero and over a white tee. A definite designer to watch.

OYL

They say that the devil is in the detail – and if that’s the case, then designers Vicki Reid and Nicola Karam must have some pentagrams hiding somewhere. Their very tight collection, under the banner Oyl, offers an immaculately tailored garment for every woman. Whether you are more into flattering empire line dresses, patterns reminiscent of stunning vintage florals, the edgy, funky stylings of slouchy chic tops and tight cargo pants or tulip hemmed dresses of burnt gold – Oyl has something for you. A highlight for this reviewer was a jersey long sleeve top with strands of fabric standing in for tie.

Pia Christiansen

For more, check out fashionz.co.nz

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