Stepping Back In Time On The Main Trunk Line

It is 7:20am and the OVERLANDER train is about to make his way up to Auckland from Wellington. People storm into the carriages, checking their allocated seat numbers and eventually making themselves comfortable in a wide, comfy, but strangely patterned seat.

Looking about, the carriage has two seats on both sides of the wagon facing ahead.

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The train is almost full and wherever there are a lot of people there is that sweet smell of an interesting odour in the air that makes the whole journey a bit sticky and unpleasant. But in saying that after a couple of hours sitting the smell really is not that bad anymore.

So far I can consider myself lucky as the seat next to me is still not occupied – well lets wait and see… or better, hope.

We are about to leave and the thought of a 12 hour trip up north makes me nervous but excited what might come and what the scenery and the whole experience itself might be. If you think about it… 12 long hours, sitting down – it is like flying from Zürich to Singapore, crazy.

The train starts to role slowly but steadily out of Wellington’s train station (lovely building). I wave bye to windy and rainy Wellington while the train rolls along the waterfront then through a steep gorge. At first, it's very slow moving. It seems like I'd be able to run along next to the train. Perhaps it is because of the whole scenery-intake-experience or because the train and the track are a bit dated.

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A very friendly and enthusiastic guy walks through the train and checks the tickets, it is the same one who points out where, or what we are about to pass. In order to let you know, the first tunnel is 1.8km long and the second one we head through is the longest one in the country... an incredible 4.3km – smile.

The train makes its way through stunning river gorges and the well known Raurimu spiral, which some might never have heard of.

Now the Tasman sea is to the left and its stunning but the rain drops are still knocking on the huge panoramic windows. If you ever take the Overlander, you better make sure you get a window seat.

Far out on the horizon, there's a hint of blue sky which inspires hope that there is an escape from the rather bland grey hue behind me.

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Small waves are crashing against the rocks. It is very peaceful and it's almost like the train travels right next to the sea, makes you feel like you could almost touch the water.

Travelling on your own can be very quiet but it definitely gives you plenty of time to study the people in the carriage. Mainly tourists from overseas are on board, they all seem to enjoy it so far. Cannot say that sitting down for half a day is a lot of fun. You do get sore but it is really worthwhile.

The train comes to a halt and it’s the first stop, how exciting, we are able to stretch our legs. No sign of a possible neighbour yet. There's a sense the train is trying to run away from the rain but cannot quite make it, unfortunately.

This train line is very historic and has certainly endured some really bad years. It used to be the main trunk line between Auckland and Wellington and vice versa. The land passing this window has so far been stunning, and surely, the long way over 352 bridges and through 14 tunnels will make it all a great adventure that one would probably only do once. Unless, that is, you are a real train fanatic and like to sit on your bum for a very long time.

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The Overlander train takes you back in time as it passes farm after farm and the amount of sheep grazing on this land is crazy, guess New Zealand's sheep population (38.4 Million) has to be somewhere.

Lost in time we hopper along “ta ticke ti tack ta ticketi tack” the sound puts you almost to sleep. But on a journey like this, don’t think of sleep as you really could miss out on something. Oh, but maybe dozing off now and then is pretty normal.

Sitting here, it's easy to let your mind wander, imagining life is out there while watching it from the inside. You are able to discover things you wouldn’t see in a car or by foot or even by plane. It’s a different trip. It is a special one where you have the time to think and just be. Looking out the window, what one can see is endless land spotted with little hills that bring a change and real character to the land. It looks all deserted and away from any sort of civilisation. The only living creatures are the woolly sheep looking a bit sad in the rain.

Most probably the formation of the land tells some sort of story and how it all came about. The steady change of scenery makes the journey interesting and not boring at all. One can argue it all looks the same and this part might look similar to Scotland, this to Brazil and this one to another place in the world. But in knowing that all this is more or less in one place, on one island, it makes it so special and it has its own beauty.

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If you have noisy people in the train with you it makes it a nerve wrecking trip as it was in this train – having to listen to Shrek II was probably not ideal. It seems the kid (the Shrek-fan) has never heard of earphones.

Now there are pine trees as far as the eye can see, stretching their green branches high up in the sky. Little streams run through the wet dark green grass and there are sheep running off as soon as the train gets close to them.

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The train is stopping now, near where the highest mountain on the North Island is, Mt Ruapehu. Unfortunately he is hiding behind thick clouds this time. The small village is a ski resort, it must be a buzzing place during the southern winter. Reading the “Skis for rent” sign is almost surreal, as there is not a single indication of snow so far.

It's been a wonderful interlude, and when leaving the sweet train station of Ohakune, where there is a great small coffee place inside, I'm looking out to get the last glimpse of this summertime ghost town.

Now there's grass all the way, it's long but sparkling as the sun tries its best to dry up the rain drops on the green leaves. It looks like the Brecon Beacons in Wales and once again it makes one wonder if New Zealand is really almost at the end of the world. It is the heart of the North Island and it's fantastic.

Just passed the impressive volcanic plateau, where the volcanoes Ruapehu, Ngaruahoe and Tongariro stand high on the right side looking like a little happy family.

Apparently they are still active; glad we made it through without seeing any steam coming out of them!

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The train guy who guides the passengers through the journey via loudspeaker seems to be fascinated by the tunnels – or is it that he's proud as a New Zealander that those before him were able to build the actual tunnels?

It got me thinking… a tunnel is a hole, usually dark and damp or hot if it’s a long one, and true, there is quite a big constructional work behind it which is impressive if you think about it. People dig holes into a mountain in order to pass through it in order to make life easier for everyone. Just like in real life, finding “the” loophole to everything and taking shortcuts now and then.

The trees still make the scene special. The train track winds through the most diverse green coloured hills which are either naked or covered in trees. Forgot to mention the sheep, never forget them as they are your real travelling companions, friends, as they follow you right through to Hamilton.

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As we get closer to the Waikato region's largest centre, the remote areas with such magnificent scenery seem to have stopped. Now we pass more and more villages, as we get closer to Hamilton.

Time seems to catch up with the train and it makes you realize that you are not in some remote land anymore… you are in the middle of towns and suburbs again.

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Far away, as the evening sky unfurls stands Sky Tower – it's impressive, its height, and it really gives Auckland a special touch, somehow being unique in its own bizarre way.

Wellington and Auckland are not comparable - nor would a train journey be comparable to a car - but both cities definitely have their very own charm and are fantastic places to travel and explore. The train really sums up the North Island – it can be cold and boring but also lively and very romantic. The views are sweeping and unforgettable.

Suddenly, the Overlander pulls into downtown Auckland's Britomart station – It's buzzing with Friday evening commuters… And the city greets us within its jolting embrace…

Patrizia Sigg is a university student from Zurich, Switzerland, majoring in politics and media. She has been working with Scoop Media on a three month internship programme.

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