Delphi: Centre of the World, Home of the Oracle

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The Sanctuary of Apollo - Delphi

Greek mythology tells how Zeus released two eagles at opposite ends of the world and they met at Delphi. Thus it was considered by the ancient Greeks to be at the very centre of the world.

Over time it became a sacred place of worship to Apollo the god of truth, and was renowned for its mysterious 'Oracle'; the most powerful seer in Greece. Situated high on the slopes of Mt Parnossos near the Gulf of Corinth in southern Greece, it was one of the most famous places of the classical age.

The Oracle dwelt in the main temple known as the 'Sanctuary of Apollo'. Perhaps due to the areas' pre-historic connection to the worship of the earth goddess, it was a priestess who filled this role each generation. Despite the Hollywood treatment in the film '300' she was not a sensual young girl but typically a pious older woman selected from among the local peasants.

When recieving pilgrims she would be induced into a trance by a sweet smelling gas that rose up from a visible opening to the earth below. At the time the vapour was considered a divine gift. Current scientific theory suggests a link with ethylene from a highly volatile fault, although any evidence has long since vanished. What we do know is that the Greeks believed it could blur the boundaries between worlds and allow the god to speak through her.

Whether feverish rambling or inspired revelation the word of the Oracle and her attending priests was unquestioned as she literally spoke for the gods.

As early as the 6th Century BC people would come from all over the known world to seek counsel. The Oracle had considerable influence and was consulted on such matters as wars and the founding of new colonies as well as people's own private concerns.

It's said that the young Macedonian King Alexander consulted her about campaigning abroad before his victories earned him the title of 'Great' King. The oracle is also at the centre of the myth of Oedipus who learned of his dark fate at Delphi . Yet another famous prophecy came during the invasion by the seemingly invincible Persians in 480 BC.

'Pray to the Winds' she said, 'They will prove to be mighty allies of Greece'. In a subsequent naval battle with the Athenians, 20% of the Persian fleet was wrecked in a relentless storm from which the defenders' ships emerged all but unscathed. A great victory for the Greeks ensued.

Today the ruins of Dephi are stunning. Set high amongst rocky cliffs that overlook deep wooded valleys. In the distance the waters of the Gulf of Corinth sparkle in typically bright Greek sunshine.

The road that winds along the surrounding hills provides the starting point to explore the site. Once through the entrance gates it's a hot climb up the old stone steps to the remains of many treasury buildings which line the path up to the temple itself; this is known as 'The Sacred Way'.
The treasuries were built to hold the offerings to the god from the various city states of the Greek world.

Many huge hexagonal columns still stand on the site of the Sanctuary of Apollo and the foundations of the building suggest it was an imposing structure indeed. We know from ancient engravings of the site that a colossal statue of Apollo stood at the entrance of the temple. Sadly all that remains now is it's base, although many other incredible statues were salvaged and are on display in the nearby archaeological museum.

Climbing higher you come to the theatre. The rows of seating around the central stage are in good condition and a stadium stands at the very top of the cliff. As an important religious centre the town hosted the 'Phythian Games' - an important athletic meeting that predates even the Olympics. Interestingly, music as well as athletic contests were held during the meets and like the Olympics the Games' importance as a sacred rite was paramount.

Walking around the ruins it's easy to imagine a thriving community of priests and acolytes. And below, ships sailing into the bay and riders cantering through the valleys to pay homage.

I stayed for a day and explored the site for several hours in the morning before returning to enjoy the view at dusk.

There were few people around, in stark contrast to the busy tourist activity earlier in the day

I sat on a park bench along the road from the ruins and watched the sun go down over the hills and valleys beyond. The whole area conveys a real sense of silence. But not peace exactly.

It gave me the curious feeling that it was too quiet, like something was just about to happen and I kept catching myself glancing up at the old hillside as if waiting for something. It's as though the spirit of the place doesn't rest easy as a relic of a lost world after countless centuries of being at the very heart of things.

Whether it's the history of the place or the awe-inspiring setting, it evokes a sense of the profound, of the possibilities of life...of magic even. Anything seemed possible from up there.

As I took in the remarkable view across the valleys, over the bays in the Gulf and out to sea, I had the feeling that the whole world was out there waiting. Generation after generation of people through the ages had come searching for something, looked out over that same view, and undeniably felt the same tug on the senses. They'd hoped and loved and lived and died and the cycle goes on.

Sometimes the simplest revelations can be the most profound.

As I slowly walked away from Delphi and back towards the lights of the town I passed a pretty Greek orthodox shrine by the roadside. A painting of Jesus looked out from behind a glass case with a small cross and some incense nearby.

It seemed an odd contrast but one totally in line with modern Greece. A symbol of change in this ancient place and also the new faith that ultimately led to the end of the Oracle and her mystical civilization. That world has long since disappeared and all we can do is wonder at what they've left us.

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The Sanctuary of Apollo - Delphi

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The Temple of Athena - Delphi

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Nearby a small Greek Orthodox shrine provides an interesting contrast.

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The view out to the Gulf of Corinth (and at dusk)

Previously:

Tim Rossiter has been working abroad for nearly five years. Leaving New Zealand initially for Japan before rejoining many of his young counterparts in London. Despite the long hours of commuting and grey skies he enjoys it as it allows him the chance to indulge his passion for travel. He shares some of his experiences with stuff readers.

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